Q&A: Hand Taste, Homegrown
A conversation with chef, TV host, cookbook author, and Farmstand grower Esther Choi (@choibites)
Chef Esther Choi learned to cook at her Korean grandmother’s side, starting with kimchi. Today she’s the chef and owner of mŏkbar, a partner at Ms. Yoo in Manhattan (named for that same grandmother), and a familiar face on Food Network, where she co-hosts 24 in 24: Last Chef Standing with Michael Symon. Her debut cookbook, Hand Taste is out October 27.
She’s also growing on not one but two indoor Farmstands in her New York City apartment, packed with lettuces, bok choy, tatsoi, herbs, peas, and edible flowers. We talked with Esther about grandma wisdom, city growing, and how to make the holidays taste like something you grew yourself.
1. Your book is called Hand Taste. What does that mean, and how did your grandmother teach it to you?
Whenever I cook for my friends and family, they immediately know that I made it without even seeing me in the kitchen. That invisible signature is called, “sohn-mat”, which is the Korean meaning for “hand taste”. My halmoni did everything with her hands, even refusing to wear gloves for kimchi. I’ve heard that some people can inherit their sohn-mat, but I really believe anyone can find their own!
2. Did your grandmother grow any of her own food? What did growing and cooking look like in her kitchen?
My halmoni had this huge garden in New Jersey, and she grew everything from the seeds she brought over from Korea. Perilla leaves, cucumbers, Korean squash, and the Korean peppers, which were my favorite as a kid. Once they turned red at the end of the summer, we’d all help her pick them, and she’d dry them out to make her own gochugaru! And a half hour before dinner, she’d send me out to grab lettuce or perilla leaves, because she said they’d lose their freshness if they were picked too early.
3. You live in a New York City apartment. How does not one but two Farmstands fit in your home?
You know what, we make it work! Since becoming a mom, it became even more important for me to give my family good, fresh produce. I am very lucky because Leon doesn’t have any issues eating veggies! So we absolutely made space for our Farmstands.
4. Walk us through what’s growing right now. How are you cooking with the bok choy, tatsoi, and peas?
When I’m not in the restaurant, I tend to cook simple Korean dishes. I’ve been really enjoying using up whatever veggies I have on hand to make jeon (Korean pancakes). They come together super quickly, and fry up in mere minutes. They are crispy and satisfying, and very kid-friendly! My favorite touch is a drizzle of Sessy Sesame Oil, either in the dipping sauce or right on top, to bring out that toasty, nutty aroma that ties everything together.
8. Holiday potluck season is here. How do you make a dish that feels special, and what do you bring?
I’d definitely bring japchae! It’s known as party food in Korea. My halmoni used to make it in big batches for church, and she never measured anything. Her japchae was a perfect example of sohn-mat, and the best for a potluck because everyone loved it. The key is to cook each vegetable separately so they stay crisp, and I toss the noodles in the dressing while they’re still warm so they soak up all that flavor.
10. You’ve cooked in some of the best kitchens in the country. Why does food taste better when you grew it yourself?
The ability to be involved every step of the way is so rewarding. From the sprouting to the harvest, I get to watch my vegetables come to fruition. Knowing where it comes from (and who is behind it!) inspires me to cook with even more joy and passion.
11. Edible flowers are on your Farmstand too. How do you use them to dress up a holiday table?
I love garnishing my mandu with flowering cilantro or chives (because I’m extra!). Even just a few petals on a big platter make everything feel so much more festive.
Want to swap harvests, recipes, and “what do I do with all this bok choy” questions with growers like Esther? Come join the conversation in the Community Garden.
